In the reception area of French Polynesian President Gaston Flosse's party headquarters in downtown Papeete, two framed photos hanging close together are striking in their similarities.
In one, French President Jacques Chirac stands in front of the French Parliament in a charcoal grey suit, blue shirt and red tie.
In the other, Flosse stands identically posed outside the presidential buildings in Papeete, in a charcoal grey suit, blue shirt and red tie.
Imitation, it is said, is the sincerest form of flattery and Flosse, 73, seems eager to offer it. The pair are old allies and Chirac is godfather to Flosse's youngest son.
But their years of friendship and mutual support are strained today as Flosse's Government struggles over what to do about the increasingly embarrassing problem of Oscar Temaru.
Tahitian-born Temaru, 60, is a battler whose popular appeal grew locally as Mayor of Faaa since 1983, and nationally though anti-nuclear protests over the French testing at Mururoa Atoll in the mid-1990s.
His gritty political determination finally toppled Flosse in this year's general elections on May 23. It was a surprise result for both.
The odds were always against Temaru and his pro-independence Tavini Huiraatira Party, fighting a long-term incumbent who had ruled French Polynesia for all but four years since it became self-governing in 1984.
This year, the odds grew longer.
In February further autonomy was granted to French Polynesia in areas such as employment, land issues, commerce, and even limited international roles.
French Polynesia was referred to in a new autonomy statute as an overseas country of France, as well as a territory.
Flosse, born in the Gambia Islands of French Polynesia, wasted no time taking credit for the advance, spreading the good news in person throughout the five archipelagos.
Soon after, he called a general election, two years short of the five-year term.
Temaru's team felt short-changed. It had little time to get up and running, and the electoral rules were altered so whoever got the most seats in the election after the first round of voting got an extra 30 per cent of allocated seats.
In the 2001 election, Flosse's Tahoeraa Huiraatira Party won a comfortable majority. But if he was hoping that would give him an armchair ride into the extra seat, he was sadly awry.
In the most populated constituency of the Iles du Vent, Temaru's Union for Democracy - a coalition of his party and some smaller parties - polled 35,205 votes, narrowly beating off Flosse with of 34,814.
So confident had Flosse been of winning that constituency that he had invited his party faithful to the $85 million presidential buildings to celebrate. He reportedly slumped in his seat as television reports showed his defeat.
Flosse did well in the outer islands and on election night had one extra seat.
But defections tipped the balance marginally in Temaru's favour. It would not last.
Four months later Flosse regained enough support to bring Temaru down in two votes of no confidence and was re-elected as President.
But after a taste of top office and feeling hard done-by, Temaru and his followers refused to admit defeat.
They have stayed in the grandiose French-styled presidential buildings and Flosse has been forced to run his administration from a more modest office across the road.
At a press conference last week, Flosse defended his position as President and welcomed news that a report to the Council of State in Paris found polling on the Isles du Vent was faulty and should be repeated.
The Herald understands criticisms included biased radio reporting and the pale blue of Temaru's party being painted on polling booth walls in Faaa, the messy town of 30,000 west of Papeete that is home to the international airport.
Others retort that Flosse, the mayor of upmarket Pirae, dressed his town in his party colour of orange by way of free T-shirts on election day.
Last week, Flosse claimed the moral high ground and said his argument that Temaru had cheated was now validated.
He made a televised address confirming his legitimacy as the country's ruler.
But nothing has changed on the sooty streets of traffic-congested Papeete.
Temaru supporters occupy the presidential buildings and grounds, and have blockaded many Government offices.
They say Flosse is increasingly viewed as self-serving and extravagant, and want a new election for all of French Polynesia.
Temaru's officials say they have 40,000 signatures - about a third of eligible voters - on a petition calling for dissolution of the territorial assembly and new elections.
But Flosse says a new poll makes no sense because an election was held only five months ago, and French courts have supported the legitimacy of his rule.
Temaru also has stability problems. He has failed to maintain a majority, and within the Union for Democracy he must balance the wishes of five parties.
And an attempt to call a general strike last Tuesday to force Chirac to show his hand failed.
Not everybody wants to unduly strain the links to France, which still compensates the country for the loss of the heavy military spending during the 30 years of nuclear testing which ended in 1996.
Flosse plays up that anxiety, promoting the comfort of autonomy in the protective bosom of France as compared to full independence and the cutting of the purse strings.
Temaru does want full independence - but, he says, only in the long term. He meanwhile aims for the governance of French Polynesia and pressing social needs to more evenly distribute its wealth.
Allegations and rumours of corruption, backhanders and bribes in the Flosse regime are rife.
Questions are asked about how a former schoolteacher managed to amass such wealth.
Temaru plans to almost double the minimum wage to about 150,000 francs ($2348) a year. Flosse has indicated he would be prepared to raise it to 125,000 francs.
But Temaru also wants to give financial support to the 20 per cent of the population which has no income.
"We need to bring up the living standards - there are homeless people, some even living at the rubbish dump," he said.
French Polynesia was completely dependent on French aid.
"We have to develop the economy, and we have big plans."
Temaru wants to increase agriculture and horticulture production and make better use of the huge fishing zone the 120 islands of French Polynesia have.
He also wants to build ties with countries such as New Zealand, where Temaru lived for a short time with his Cook Island step-parents when he was 15.
French Polynesia is New Zealand's second-largest market in the Pacific and Temaru wants more New Zealanders spending their tourist dollars there.
But his plans can be only hypothetical.
He may sit on the embossed presidential chair in Flosse's gilded shrine to French taste, but France holds the power of the law and forces.
Temaru's supporters look comfortably settled in their palatial surroundings, but Flosse's patience must finally run out.
He will soon want his old buddy Chirac, a reputed benefactor of Flosse's political largesse, to return a few favours.
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The New Zealand Herald
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